Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Some Finger Training Instructional Videos



Versión en Español

I have just uploaded some videos to youtube that I hope will help you to get the most out of your dead hang workouts.

1- Dead hang Training (1 of 6): The Effort Level (EL) for Maximum Strength
The Effort Level is a useful tool that we use to control and assess the load when training maximum strength.
It is also a way to reduce the risk of injury, and to raise awareness that abusing muscle failure is detrimental in the long run.
It's been shown that you can get the same results leaving some margin before muscle failure as going to failure.
The applications of the Effort Level are not limited to finger training, training with weights or other methods can benefit from this approach too. 



2- Dead Hang Training (2 of 6): Technique
Here there are some tips to increase your efficiency when performing dead hangs. At the same time they will help you avoid injuries.


3- Dead Hang Training (3 of 6): Training with Added Weight
Training with added weight is not rocket science, but here there are some tips that I hope you find useful nonetheless.
I will give just one warning: don't be lured by the pile of discs your mate can hold, or how much weight you could bear in the last session. The load must be adapted day by day and even set by set. Respect the Effort Level and your fingers and lower back will thank you.



4- Dead Hang Training (4 of 6): The Maximum Added Weight Method (MaxWt)
The Maximum Added Weight method is intended for training your finger maximum strength.
It has been observed that improving your finger maximum strength has benefits apart from the obvious ones, like allowing you to more effectively develop your finger strength endurance later on.
As always, I encourage a judicious planning of your workout load according to your level and objectives, both short- and long-term.



5- Dead Hang Training (5 of 6): The Minimum Edge Size Method (MinEd)
This finger maximum strength method is based on something that looks very straightforward: training on the smaller edge that lets you keep your preset Effort Level. It needs some time to get used to it, though, because small differences in your daily level can make (should make) a big difference in the edge depth you choose.
A recurrent failure to correctly assess the load will cost you in terms of tendons, sheaths, pulleys and skin among others.
 

6- Dead Hang Training (6 of 6): The Intermittent Dead Hangs Method
I think this is a very attractive method because it involves... yes!: muscle failure.
I discourage abusing muscle failure when it comes to developing maximum strength, but this is a strength endurance method, and its aim is reaching failure just at the end of the session. Achieving this takes some experience, though, don't expect to get it right the first time.
The actual workout is short, but it is a high intensity-high density one. You can tailor the volume and 
intensity parameters to your liking, but I don't recommend going beyond the margins that are put forward in the video. More of something good is not necessarily good.
The maximum strength methods cause gains via neural adaptation mainly. However, this suggested strength endurance method can also increase moderately our maximum strength, via hypertrophy. Alternating them along the season makes for greater and more sustained improvement.

5 comments:

  1. Muchas Gracias por esta entrada en particular, y por tu blog en general, eres muy grande Eva!

    Un saludo!.

    www.climbforever.com

    ReplyDelete
  2. I hope I found the right blog with wonderful topic to solve my problems on fingers. I surely try this.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hello Eva, thanks for these excellent and inspiring pages !

    Could you please comment on the way to combine these pure strength exercise with a different kind of exercises in the same day ? (do other kinds before, wait for 1/2 day of recovery??)

    Cheers,
    Vincent

    ReplyDelete
  4. How often do you train the MaxWt and MinEd methods? 3-4 times a week? Both in one sitting? etc.

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete

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